Saturday, September 09, 2006

Lenkijape Diaries: August 1 to 3

Here are some of the long awaited journal entries that I wrote while living in Lenkijape. I actually wrote them in a notebook with a pen. (Continuing from July 31)

Under the Candle Light
Tuesday, August 1. Lenkijape.

I finally got in touch with Eben. I called him when he was I Kenya coming from Tanzania. He was on his way to Kiluani, so they came soon after I called. As PuiMeng and I suspected, they thought I was already in Lenkijape, so they went there instead of Kiluani. It was my bad because I didn't communicate with them beforehand. Anyhow, they came to Kiluani with some missionary team from Korea. They didn't have time to take me to Kenkijape, so they took me and Pastor Stephen to Mile-Tisa, a little village on the main road that is closest to Lenkijape. From there we had to find a "taxi."

We had to go quite far from the main road. The barabara ("road" in Kiswahili) was very bumpy. Good thing we were on a big 4WD pickup truck. After we arrived, we had some chai with the pastor here (David Aluvisia), the chairman of the church and primary school (Jonathan Larmoi), the headmaster of the school (John Solonik), and one of the teachers (Shadrak Kaliti). Then I visited the school, talked with the headmaster, and helped pastor Aluvisia with recording grades. They had just finished the exams for the trimester, so they were adding up the scores and ranking the students. We took about an hour to do something I could have done in 8 minutes on Excel... 6 minutes entering data, 1 minute calculating and sorting, 1 minute formatting and printing. Instead, we used paper, pencil, calculator, and carbon paper. After that, I joined the students playing volleyball from a few minutes before they were dismissed for the day. They are closing the school on Thursday.

I got to talk with the pastor for a while. It seems like that's what I do most of the time nowadays, talk with pastors. Pastor David is a bit quiet and not so playful as pastor Stephen, even though he's only 2 years older than Pastor Stephen who is 33.

Pastor David's wife is gone home till Thursday, so there were a few girls from school cooking for us. We had some rice, chapati, cabbage and potato, and some goat meat (they just call it "meat" here). They were so much better than Isaiah's cooking... If Isaiah opened a restaurant in the US, he'll probably get a health inspection grade of "F," while the girls here (who are still in class 6 or 7 in primary school, but mostly at age of about 17) would get at least a "C."

After dinner, I talked with some of the boys who live at the compound. They asked me a lot of science questions to see if I knew them. One of them, Benson, is 21, and he is in class 7. He has 2 wives, 2 children, and 200 cattle. He used to be a moran (Masai soldier) like all the boy were traditionally. After getting married, he decided to get educated so that he could be a soldier. He also seemed quite interested in studying at BCEA. It's intriguing to see people like Benson who is already an adult going through primary school.

So here in Lenkijape, there is no electricity, so I'm writing this on paper under a candle light. I bought only 6 candles but too many matches. Judging by how fast the candles are melting (I'm using 3 right now since 1 is not bright enough), they not going to last more than a week. I must get more soon. I'm planning to go to Nairobi on Friday. PuiMeng is supposed to pick me up at Mile-Tisa at 7:30AM.

Next week, all the teachers are going to Masai mara for a safari tour for 3-4 days. The pastor had talked with them beforehand so that I could join them (he is also one of the teachers). So I'm really looking forward to that.

Tomorrow, we have "Morning Glory" (morning prayer) at 5am. Then I'll be going to a fellowship in the afternoon.

I guess I'll sleep now (11:20pm). I'm staying at one of the rooms in the church building next to the pastor's bedroom. Apparently some of the guys from the London team stayed here a few weeks ago.

Taking a “Shower” for the First Time
Wednesday, August 2.

The first three candles have already gone out. They were too short that I could not see the notebook, so I put the last three candles.

The day started out with morning prayer at 5am. Since there is no electricity, people just came in to the sanctuary and prayed out loud. Some people sang a few choruses in (I think it was) Kimasai. After an hour of prayer (although I was dozing off for the most part), we had a cup of tea and some chapati (leftovers from last night) for breakfast.

Three of the headmaster's children (Alex, Grace, and Samuel) stay with the pastor during the week because their home is in Mile-Tisa, which is too far for the children to travel everyday. I went to the school with the pastor well after the kids went. The school is right across the street from the church. Students were basically cleaning the school (or just playing) all day. I got to talk with one of the youngest teachers, Johnstone Keton (23), for a while, and learned a bit more about Maasai culture and Kenya.

At 3pm, Jacob Kila, Mark (brother to Rachel, one of the girls who cooked last night) and I walked over to a church member’s house for a fellowship. Kila and Mark are 17 and 16, respectively (I think), but are still in classes 8 and 7 because they started school late. In traditional Maasai homes, looking after cattle takes precedence over education, so they make their firstborns learn to take care of livestock while they send the younger ones to school. So both of the boys who were with me today have younger brothers who are already in secondary school. We walked for about 40 minutes and finally arrived at a boma. Usually the pastor leads the fellowship, but today he was busy, so Kila shared some words and Mark translated for me.

On the way back, we dropped by the place where people get water. It’s basically where the river ends and the water drains. The river is all dried up right now, but they say it was filled in April. People were digging the mud and scooping sandy water into reused plastic bottles. The bottles weren’t even those clear plastic bottles used for water. They were those opaque bottles used for cooking oil or engine oil. These people really know how to recycle. I can’t even imagine drinking that water, but apparently they wait for the sand/debris to settle and drink the top layer. I suppose it’s the same water we have in the tank outside of church right now. There’s no running water in Lenkijape, so people have to carry it.

During our journey to fellowship, I got to meet a moran for the first time. He’s actually a brother of Kila, so I got to take a picture with him. He was only a little kid. But boys can because a moran as soon as they are circumcised (usually around 13).

After the long trip, I decided to take a shower for the first time (I don’t know if you would call it shower though). I heard that the London Team, while they were staying here, didn’t shower even once because they had people carry water for them, and didn’t want to waste it. Since I’m staying here for a while, I figured I’d get used to their way of taking a bath. Now that I’ve taken it, I’m thinking there might have been more reasons than just the shortage of water that the London Team didn’t take a shower for a whole week.

Imagine you’re in a booth made of iron sheets and wood. It’s dimensions are about 4ft x 4ft x 7ft, about the size of a telephone booth, except a bit smaller. The floor is made of cement, and has one small hole for a drain. You carry in a big basin with some water, some soap, shampoo, and a shower scrub. There is a metal wire going across at your eye level, so you hang your towel and clothes. Just after you’ve taken off all your clothes, you realize you didn’t bring a clean pair of underwear. But you decide to proceed with the bath. You crouch down to the basin and start wetting your hair. Then you notice the smell from the toilet which is right behind the iron sheet. You figure that you could cover up the smell when you use the shampoo. Note that toilets here are just a hole in the ground surrounded by walls made of iron sheets. The waste goes down the hole and just sits in a deep pit down below, so the smell is quite interesting. You don’t have any scooper, so you use your soapy hands to scoop up some water to rinse your hair. The water in the basin is already whitish, but you figure it’s just some shampoo. There’s hardly any light in the booth. There are a few small holes that let light in from the outside, but the sun is already behind a hill, and it’s starting to get dark very quickly. You wash your face and soap up the body, but all you can see is a silhouette of yourself, and you can’t tell how much soap is still on you. You feel some grainy things on your arms, but since you can’t see them, you have no idea what they are. You just try to rinse them off with your hands. Then you start to rinse the rest of the body by scooping water with your hands, but without much success. So you dump the rest of the water in the basin on the top of your head as the last-ditch effort. Perhaps it was a success, but you don’t know because it’s too dark. Besides, by now you don’t really care. You just try to dry off as much as you can with the towel. Since you don’t have a clean pair of underwear, you just wrap the towel around your waist, put on a shirt, and walk back to your room hoping no one will see you.

So that was my experience taking a bath here for the first time.

Now I must sleep. I’m so tired...

Closing Ceremony and Wild Chicken
Thursday, August 3.

I really should be sleeping now but I’ll just briefly summarize what happened today.

The primary school closed today. The closing ceremony was super long. Everyone was ranked among their classes, and teachers and parents spoke about I-have-no-idea-what. They all spoke in Kimasai, so I couldn’t understand anything. Alex and Grace were both the top of their classes (5th and 3rd grades, respectively).

Afterwards, two of the girls who were cooking for us (Leah and Ruth), Kancholi, and Joshua taught me some Kimasai. Now I can count up to 10,000 in Kimasai. Well, I still need my notes though. Maasai people use a sign language for numbers (as well as words), which I though was quite interesting. It’s not just the deaf of the mute that learn the sign language, but basically everyone knows how to say a number in sign language.

Pastor bought a guinea fowl for dinner. I got to see it being slaughtered. It was the weirdest thing ever. When Pastor cut its neck, it didn’t seem to resist at all, but right after the head fell off, the body started to go berserk, and the head was still moving! The eyes were blinking and the beak was moving. The body kept twitching for at least another 2 minutes. Guinea fowls make me think of dinosaurs. They have a horn-like head, and their skin is blue. The meat was the toughest thing I’ve ever eaten in my life.

Nothing much happens around here. So slaughtering a bird is an event. Tomorrow, Pastor and I are going to Nairobi. We have to get picked up by PuiMeng at 7:30am at Mile-Tisa. So I must get up early and get ready.

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